'You will be punched!' Gendered disputes over clothing in postcolonial Tanzania

Drawing on oral sources, archival research, and existing scholarship, this article offers a historical analysis of the socio-political significance of Western clothing in colonial and independent Tanzania, while examining the lasting impact of the gendered debates regarding imported attire. In East Africa, Western clothing began circulating during the early colonial period, sparking widespread interest and discussions about the advantages and drawbacks of specific styles. For instance, Swahili-language newspapers in the late colonial era often featured satirical cartoons mocking young, poorly dressed rural men. These depictions underscored their struggles to adapt to urban life and reflected broader societal tensions surrounding modernity.After independence, the pursuit of an ostensibly ‘authentic’ national culture sparked heated debates, leading to the development of formal cultural policies and campaigns, alongside grassroots initiatives aimed at regulating or even banning specific Western-style garments. The article explores the gendered dimensions of this phenomenon and highlights the contradictions within the movement advocating for‘appropriate and decent’ attire. Emphasis on decorum often led to severe criticism and attacks on young townswomen wearing clothing deemed too short or tight, which was interpreted as a signal of immorality. This mindset persisted into the 1980s and 1990s. It was exemplified by an ostensibly satirical group known as 'Mzee Punch'. Comprised of male university students at the University of Dar es Salaam, 'Mzee Punch' targeted young female students, accusing those in revealing or low-cut garments of violating the institution’s dress code. The article features a personal account from a woman who who was targeted by such attacks on campus.